Hormigas Culonas – Literally, Big Ass Ants

“The book says…” (one of my favorite expressions), that the Santander Department is famous for its big ass ants. A favorite local snack, the people here reportedly love to munch on these ants, which are fried. Other travelers we met who were also headed in this direction asked if we were going to try the ants. Claro, it’s what is done when one is in Santander.

So, upon entering the department we bought our obligatory bag of ants. Indeed, they are huge. Mike ate two of them and well, I hate to say it but I just couldn’t pop any in my mouth. Unusual, as I’ve never met a fried food I didn’t like. Mike’s reaction was, “They’re wicked salty”. I like salty snacks too, but well.....they’re ANTS. Just couldn’t do it.

Then I started to be suspicious. Was this some kind of tourist gimmick? You know, like Rocky Mountain Oysters where no self-respecting local would ever eat them, but they make for good tourist fun. I was convinced. I’d figured it out. It was all a marketing ploy by the Chamber of Commerce.


We hit San Gil, self-proclaimed Adventure Sport capital of Santander. The Rio Fonce flows right through town and we quickly became regulars in the riverside park. Rafting is big here as is kayaking and there were all kinds of ‘river people’ padding around the park carrying kayaks and rafts, funky old vans lined up to shuttle people up river. Kind of reminded us of…..


And what do you think was in the middle of the riverside park?

Mike and Chet and a Big Ass Ant

Hmmmm, what’s with these people and these ants?

We stumbled on a camping place called El Aldea (small village or farm) and pulled in. We passed some people squatting down along the dirt road to the main house poking at the ground. Not quite birders, they had more of a gardener look: big hats, long sleeved shirts and long pants and knee-high rubber boots. Were they planting something??


We loved the owners and their three children and felt welcomed on their property, which we learned later they are selling off in parcels but currently have set up as a camping area. It was beautiful and we were the only guests. We felt like it was our place.

This may have been the start of our current vehicle issues and Mike spent time hand in hand with the Bentley fixing a fuel injector problem.

Mike with an amp meter in one hand and the Bentley in the other

Chettie and I hung out and enjoyed the beautiful setting. On the second day, the entire family came out in full regalia and began canvassing the area: squatting, picking things up and putting them in their buckets. We realized they were hunting for ants.

Then, I heard a buzzing noise and noticed lots of birds swooping through the air near the van. Further inspection revealed a swarm of big ass ants had landed nearby.

The older son passed by and with enthusiasm I called out “Muchas hormigas”. But he just kept walking. Then the younger son came by and his eyes got as big as ping-pong balls.

He began snatching up ants and putting them in his bucket. The older son came back and he too was frantically capturing ants like they had hit the mother lode.

With this dad came by and was as excited as a birder who has just spotted his first resplendent quetzal. He too was on the chase.


Despite all this activity, Alba, the mom, later told me that no one in their family eats the ants. Ah Ha! I knew it! I was right; it’s just a tourist gimmick. Nooooo, they were catching the ants for her mother. They don’t eat them because they are all vegetarians!

Mike and Chet chillin´at El Aldea